Country Life In Saskatchewan

First published in Take Off Eh!

Getting a taste of rural life on the Prairies

Fort Walsh National Historic Sites of Canada

I drove through Saskatchewan’s rural countryside under the heat of the prairie sun, navigating a maze of highways that twisted and turned into endless dusty roads. In the southwest region of the province, gophers dotted the roads, seemingly intent on crossing whenever I passed. Other vehicles whizzed by intermittently, their drivers giving me friendly waves of acknowledgement as I made my way west through the back roads of the Frenchman River Valley. Here the skies went on forever and driving through the vast landscape was like disappearing into barely charted territory. I passed working farms, grazing cattle, sun-dappled horses, and empty barns- a way of life passed down from generation to generation. This was rural Saskatchewan in all its glory.

Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park was the reason I ventured into this region, my desire to view the scenic uplands propelling me swiftly through these flattened plains. I decided it wouldn’t be a true journey, however, unless I made a few stops along the way. During the two-hour drive southwest from Regina, I paused at Saskatchewan’s only winery, the Cypress Hills Vineyard & Winery. Lunch was a delicious veggie wrap in their small bistro and a free wine tasting that showcased the eight varieties of grapes grown- a pleasing testament to the province’s bountiful land. After a self-guided stroll through the vines, I returned to my car, eager to reach the park.

Cypress Hills is a nature lover’s dream, charming visitors with its soaring views, meandering springs and frequent sightings of moose, elk, and birds of all feathers. It also marks the highest elevation between Labrador and the Rocky Mountains. At 1,392m above sea level, Cypress Hills sprawls magnificently over the boundary of Saskatchewan into neighbouring Alberta. For me, the most fascinating part of the park, however, was the excellent Fort Walsh National Historic Sites of Canada. Established in 1875, it’s been used as a NWMP (North West Mounted Police) headquarters and later, an RCMP post.

During my visit at Fort Walsh, I participated in “mock trials,” a highly entertaining diversion that blended history with make-believe. Participants were assigned characters and dialogue inspired by real historical figures. A gaggle of kids, acting as the NWMP, happily “arrested” the adults, who then had to face the court with their crimes. My character was the town alcoholic on trial for trafficking booze, certainly an exciting part to play. The most memorable mock trial concerned a certain Mary Tate and the assault on her neighbour with a frying pan. After the spirited account of hair pulling and attacks with kitchen implements, the children were laughing hysterically and yelling “Guilty!” at their grinning parents.       

I had to step out of the time warp as evening rushed in and map my way to my lodging at the Historic Reesor Ranch, located nearby. This working cattle ranch began as the Markham Ranch Company, became a homestead claim in 1904, and has since been inhabited by five generations of Reesors. I stayed in the guesthouse with four regulars, and we shared the house like it was our own.

Reesor Ranch Bathroom in the Guesthouse

Current owners Teresa and Scott Reesor invited my guesthouse companions and I to join their family around the dining room table for some home-cooked family meals. Dinner was accompanied by generous helpings of family lore and travelling tales, while breakfast featured a poetry reading depicting bygone days at the ranch. We sat, mesmerized, as Scott shared his mother’s poems with us, composed when she was raising her children on the farm.

As I navigated my way back to Regina, I found myself driving at a more relaxed pace than usual, even slowing down to let the odd gopher pass. I thought wistfully about the unmistakeable landscape, homespun hospitality, and lively tradition of storytelling I’d encountered during my trip. I decided to take a page out of Scott’s mother’s book and tell the world about the new home I’d unexpectedly found in this rural pocket of  southwestern Saskatchewan.

By Lori Henry