The Fortress of Louisbourg, Nova Scotia

There have been many highlights to my first trip to Nova Scotia. The Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada is definitely at the top of my list. Quel dommage to anyone who travels all the way to Cape Breton and doesn’t visit this masterpiece. The government website states that it’s “the largest reconstructed 18th-century French fortified town in North America.”

Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada

The French built this fortress starting in 1719 (and it took until 1749 to be completed) as their base for cod fishing. It became a hub for trading and commerce back to France, as well as Quebec, the West Indies and New England.

But it’s not even the history of the fortress that fascinates me, it’s the way the present day site is set up. Archaeologists have excavated about 750,000 pages of documents and found 500 maps and plans of the original town. Based on these finds, the Government of Canada was able to reconstruct one fifth of the town right on the remains of the original.

All of the buildings that line the streets are in the exact same location that they were in the 1700s. It’s remarkable. Walking past the guard at the gate (he’ll ask where you’re from and call you crazy because he’s never heard of that place before- remember, he’s from the 1740s!) and into the original town of Louisbourg.

It just got to me. I’ve been to many reconstructed villages all over Canada, with costumed interpreters and historical buildings, but the Fortress of Louisbourg is on an entirely different level. It actually feels real and I was perceptibly moved.

Again, unfortunately, I was there at the tail end of a rain storm and the weather was bad. I was told, “Oh, the weather is always foul in Louisborg” by Sharon at the Lantern Hill & Hollow in Ingonish, and boy was she right. The site is located right on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean and you can feel it. The winds literally blew me in any direction they pleased; the rain didn’t let up and made the umbrella I borrowed from my B&B my best friend (I’m good at manoeuvring umbrellas in the wind!).

I can’t even imagine how glorious this site would be in the sun. It’s on my list of places to visit again and spend much longer than the two hours I did (trust me, with the wind and cold, I feel like a champ for staying that long).

Lousibourg Hotels

It seems that most people come to the fortress on a day trip and spend the night in larger centres like Sydney. My advice? Stay in Lousibourg. It’s a small town, yes, but the accommodations are surprisingly impressive (and I think overlooked by most travellers).

I stayed at the absolutely wonderful Cranberry Cove Inn, right on the main road leading to the fortress (but as all the inns state on their websites, do not walk; I love walking but going through a never ending road with no shoulder to like five parking lots is not fun). Germaine made sure the rest of the guests and I were completely taken care of in every small detail.

I was happy to be staying in the top floor Captain’s Den ($125 CAD per night). A ship’s wheel on the wall, nautical décor, warm fireplace and slanted roof made it an interesting room to hang my hat in. Although fairly small, it was perfect for one person, although there’s also a pull out sofa that can accommodation one more person (for a total of three guests). The Jacuzzi tub is a nice touch.

All of the rooms have distinct themes, like The Secret Garden and Anne’s Hide-Away (of Lucy Maude Montgomery’s Anne of Green Gables). I didn’t end up staying for supper here, but if the home cooked breakfast is any indication of the quality, these folks know what they’re doing.

What I Liked:

• The Fortress of Louisborg is a must visit for anyone travelling nearby. In the summer there are demonstrations and a lore more lively atmosphere than when I went.
• Cranberry Cove Inn is a truly pleasant B&B, with warm hosts (you’ll meet the husband, wife and adult son) and a great location. You can choose your favourite room based on the website photos.
• Staying a night in Louisbourg rather than, say, Sydney, is going to give you a better feel for the locals and is just… nicer.
• The Lousibourg Playhouse (11 Aberdeen Street, 902-733-2996 or 1-888-733-2787) has nightly music and entertainment. Check what’s happening and GO. All shows start at 8:00 pm.