A Maiko (geiko) sits down to talk to us at Gion Hatanaka in Kyoto, Japan
In the 1920s, there were 80,000 geisha in Japan.* Today, there are approximately 1,000 left, and under 200 live in the city of Kyoto (where they are called geiko). Although they are still quite inaccessible, the best way for a traveller to step into the world of the geisha is to instead spend the evening with a maiko, a geisha-in-training.
Maiko, a Young Woman Soon To Be a Geisha
Still teenagers, maiko (“dance person” or “dance child”) are preparing for a career as a geisha. They typically train for five years without salary, having their expenses paid by their “mother,” the owner of the okiya (private space where geisha live).
Custom requires them to wear a new kimono every month, and a separate one on special occasions, so costs add up substantially. Some are paid for by the “mother,” but others are deducted from future earnings. That can add up to half a million dollars, including lessons and training.
The back of a Maiko’s (geiko) kimono at Gion Hatanaka in Kyoto, Japan
Daytime revolves around the traditional arts for maiko, dance being the most prestigious, but also calligraphy, tea, flower arrangement, learning the shamisen (three-stringed instrument), Japanese drum, and flute. They must also learn to apply their white facial makeup and dress correctly, although there are often fitters who help wrap and tuck their kimonos.
By night time, maiko attend parties to watch geisha entertain small groups over dinner and drinks. Men who spend their evenings in the company of geisha most commonly pay with an expense account because the cost is so steep.
Having Dinner with a Maiko in Kyoto
For tourists visiting Kyoto, there is an easy way to get a sample of what an evening with a geisha would be like by booking a “Maiko dinner.” The number of young girls interested in becoming geisha has been on the decline since the early 1900s, so the city of Kyoto, in its effort to maintain its status as the cultural centre of Japan, encourages ryokan (Japanese-style inns) to offer evenings with maiko.
Maiko (geiko) perform a dance at Gion Hatanaka in Kyoto, Japan
On my recent trip to Kyoto, I went to Gion Hatanaka, a ryokan in one of the Kagai districts (“Flower Town” where geiko and maiko live and work), for what they call a “Kyoto Cuisine and Maiko evening.” It stands as my favourite part of the trip.
A group of us arrived just after 5:30 pm and sat down at tables set on top of the ubiquitous tatami mat floor. Drinks were served and orders were taken before three maiko were introduced, two of them dancers and one of them playing the shamisen.
Watching them dance was like witnessing birds playing in slow motion, every turn of the head deliberate, each hand as delicate as a wing. After their performance, they chose a few of us Westerners to join them on stage for some drinking games. One was a version of rock, paper, scissors that involved one of us partnering with each maiko as we followed them in a dance and then acted out either a tiger, samurai or mother. My tiger was beaten by the others’ samurai, so I had to down a glass of Sapporo beer while the maiko sang encouragement in Japanese and everyone else cheered.
Maiko (geiko) playing a drinking game with a tourist at Gion Hatanaka in Kyoto, Japan
The other game sat a maiko and competitor on their knees across a small table from each other. In rhythm, each tapped a small puck-like object with a flat hand and tried to trick the other by picking up the “puck,” to which the competitor had to respond by making a fist on the table. An incorrect hand position meant an immediate loss and more beer drunk. I won twice and was given a pair of chopsticks by my maiko partner (see video below).
After much beer was consumed by happy losers of the game, the maiko came around to each table so we could take their photos. An interpreter translated for us so we could ask them questions.
My drinking game buddy was 20 years old and the other, 18. She had studied for one year without make up on to learn how to speak and behave properly and was now in the midst of her three years as a maiko. Growing up in the Gifu prefecture, she had always been interested in Kyoto culture and moved here to become a geisha / geiko. The obi belt she was wearing was worth 30 million yen ($362,000 CAD), with her okiya (house) icon on the back to inform others which “house” she belonged to.
Maiko (geiko) at Gion Hatanaka in Kyoto, Japan
Kyoto Cuisine
These dinners are also a chance to taste traditional Japanese food. The evening costs about $215 CAN (including the meal, drinks, tax and a service fee). Note that a minimum of 10 diners is required, so sometimes the restaurant cancels 10 days in advance if they don’t have enough reservations.
QUIRKY FACT: The geisha profession was once the man’s domain. The word “geisha” first came into use in the early 1700s and in 1750 was applied to a type of male companion. Within a generation, “women geisha” had outnumbered men considerably and have now primarily taken over the profession (there are reportedly five male geisha left in Japan).
The back of a Maiko (geiko) at Gion Hatanaka in Kyoto, Japan
IF YOU GO
• For more opportunities to see maiko and geisha, to watch them perform, and to find out about the spring dance festival in the city (Miyako Odori), visit the Kyoto Tourism Council website.
• Starting in March, multiple performances per day happen at Gion Corner, along with other traditional Kyoto arts.
• A popular activity for both Japanese and Western tourists is to dress up like a maiko and walk around Kyoto. The Kyoto Tourism Council lists studios that offer this service.
My trip was sponsored by the Kyoto International Tourism Promotion Council. I stayed as a guest of Kyoto Hotel Okura and Rihga Royal Hotel Kyoto.
* From the book Kyoto: A Cultural History by John Dougill (Oxford University Press, 2006).
In Wade Davis’ 1988 book, Passage of Darkness: The Ethnobiology of the Haitian Zombie, these misappropriations are given a thorough shaking as he travels to Haiti and discovers the complex cultural belief system that makes up zombification.
As an ethnobotanist and anthropologist (and current Explorer-in-Residence at the National Geographic Society), Davis was tasked with finding the poison that allows what are called bokors to turn people into slaves by bringing them back from the dead. Or so it seems. But this isn’t a travel tale in search of a compelling narrative; this thoroughly researched book examines what death is (and the criteria in western medicine for pronouncing it), how it’s possible to stop some “essential” bodily functions like breathing without being dead, and the natural poisons that are able to do this. There is no story needed, as the research proves sufficiently enthralling.
Saying that, plenty of anecdotal stories are included about firsthand experiences with zombies, as well as documentation directly from Davis’ field notebooks. For all the interesting research, it’s the anecdotes that tend to bring the examinations into the most easily digestible format.
Beyond the ethnobiological work surrounding the research for the poison, Davis delves into the secret societies of West Africa and their new incarnations in Haiti, their political and judicial functions, and the members’ extraordinary knowledge and use of toxic plants and animals. Davis is able to gain entry into a secret society, which leads him to key new findings in the study of zombification and the Haitian voudon religion.
Although Passage of Darkness is a scientific look at the zombie phenomenon, it never strays into language that only scientists can decipher. If the subtitle piques your interest, you will be swept up in the astonishing Haitian voudon religion as Davis fleshes out the magic and sorcery that makes zombification possible. Passage of Darkness is a mind-bending read, page by astounding page.
]]>My first impulse was to see if someone in London would swap homes with me, allowing both of us to experience life in another city as a local. So I signed up with Home Base Holidays and posted my condo listing as a potential long term swap. I’m hoping that there is someone out there, ideally living in the Southwest of London (or with easy access to Roehampton University), who would like to come and visit Vancouver for 8 months (September 2013 to the end of April 2014).
Any members who are interested can check out my listing on the website: 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom condo in downtown Vancouver. I look forward to hearing from you!
Do you want to do a home swap? LoriHenry.ca readers are offered a 25% discount on membership to Home Base Holidays. Enter LORI in the promotional code box when joining (regular membership rates: one year £29 or two years £39).
Better yet, we’re running a CONTEST for a FREE membership for Home Base Holidays! You can list your home and contact other members who have homes you’d like to swap with. All you have to do to earn an entry is enter via the widget below. The more you do, the more entries you receive.
]]>[A version of this article was first published in 2008]
It is a bright morning with chilly wind when the captain announces a polar bear sighting on the starboard side of the ship. Passengers dash out with their cameras flung over one shoulder, trying frantically to sling their jackets over the other. Coming up is a work-of-art iceberg with a polar bear lounging nonchalantly on it.
As the ship nears, the bear languidly lifts up his head and looks quizzically at the large vessel. Slowly, he decides that he might be in trouble and lumbers to the edge, probably more frightened of the flashing cameras and crowd of excited people than the slow moving vessel itself.
Taking what almost looks like a sigh, he jumps into the water and starts paddling away. Every few moments he pauses to look back, hoping he doesn’t have to swim all the way to the next iceberg. The captain gently steers the vessel away from the bear and we continue on our way.
A group of ice bergs on the Baffin Island coast, Nunavut
Polar Bears, Whales and Walruses, Oh My!
That same afternoon, 30-40 bowhead whales surround the ship while going through Isabella Bay (since 2010, the bay is included in the Ninginganiq National Wildlife Area). Looking out from the upper deck, passengers see sprays every few feet, as slick backs and then flukes arc out of the water. You might see the same ones if you visit, as they can live up to 200 years, making them the longest-lived mammal species on the planet.
Days like this are common aboard Adventure Canada trips, a Canadian expedition company specializing in arctic cruises. On this trip along the eastern shores of Baffin Island in Nunavut, we passed by many a landscape that looked like creamy chocolate truffles lightly glazed with sugar and marzipan white icebergs that looked more like modern art than ice. Typical conversations run like this:
“Look at that!”
“What?”
”Just… that!” as couples, singles, young and old flap their arms at the vast panorama and stare in astonishment at the wilderness that seems too large to be real.
An Adventure Canada passenger taking a photo in Paterson Inlet, Nunavut.
Canadian Arctic Tours
Expedition cruises to the Canadian Arctic are life changing experiences. Small groups of 100 passengers (relatively speaking in the cruise industry) head out to places where the Inuit, intrepid explorers and scientists are the only humans to have set foot on the land. With global warming changing the landscape irreparably, a trip to the arctic can quite literally change one’s outlook and behaviour towards the earth.
On a more practical note, guests must be fit enough to get in and out of moving zodiacs (motorized rubber boats), which are either tied up to the ship or free floating on the shores of a beach. Crew members are always there to help, but if the water is rough, it can be a bit of a balancing act.
(Or you can learn the hard way like I did and not wear proper boots for a shore excursion. I ended up hopping off the zodiac awkwardly as we made a beach landing and soaked my feet. The freezing water almost instantly numbed my lower limbs and a more fully-prepared passenger had to lend me his wool socks so I didn’t have to return to the ship immediately. Lesson learned: on top of being physically able, also wear the right clothing.)
My fellow traveller sharing his wool socks with me after my short boots let in copious amounts of Arctic water.
And age doesn’t matter as much as attitude on these kinds of trips. “I just love doing things like this,” Gretta told me, a 91-year old passenger I met aboard. “No one else is going to do it for me!” She has come on this trip to Nunavut with her lifelong friend Elizabeth, who is 81-years old, and although Gretta didn’t do the shore excursions, she lived it up onboard and was an inspiration to everyone. The average age of passengers on Adventure Canada’s cruises seems to be around 55 years old, yet the younger crowd is starting to take heed.
Adventure Canada Cruises
Celebrating its 25th year in 2013, the folks at Adventure Canada have made cruising adventurous, rather than a luxury gorge fest. There is no sipping martinis on the poolside deck. Instead, the crew fires up the BBQ to grill local char (and char tongues!) to serve for dinner. In place of slot machines or onboard cinemas, there are Inuktitut 101 lessons (the language of the Inuit), polar dips, whisky label poetry competitions and seal fur fashion shows. The staff are scientists, artists and culturalists who lead lectures onboard and guide hikes on the tundra to point out the local wildlife, plants, culture and history.
Some people even go so far as to call this anti-cruising: not only do passengers learn from the many educational presentations, they mix and mingle over casual meals, wet zodiac rides and shared “Ah ha!” moments out on the magnificent tundra.
President Matthew Swan sums it up succinctly: “We’re still excited to go places.” The staff are just as curious and eager to be onboard as the first-time passengers. Biologists, culturalists, musicians, artists and public figures join in on the fun and are the leaders in encouraging passengers to let loose. Polar dip, anyone? Memorial Hank Williams Dance? Staff are the first to jump into the arctic water or don cowboy gear (or a kilt!) for a special occasion. Or even no occasion at all.
Taking in the views of the Royal Society Fiord in Paterson Inlet, Nunavut
Not a week goes by that I do not think of this cruise with Adventure Canada. My experience in the artic – on this trip and on subsequent visits – has profoundly changed the way I see and behave in the world. When I began research for my book, Dancing Through History: In Search of the Stories that Define Canada, Nunavut was the first place on my list to re-visit. The land has humbled me and the Inuit have taught me about forgiveness, laughter and the beauty of a sharing society. I take those lessons with me wherever I go.
Travelling in Nunavut
Adventure Canada (1-800-363-7566) runs cruises to Baffin Island (and beyond) throughout the year.
Nunavut Tourism (1-866-686-2888) can help with travel arrangements and answer questions about the territory.
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The Wayfinders by Wade Davis
In Wade Davis’ The Wayfinders: Why Ancient Wisdom Matters in the Modern World (House of Anansi Press, 2009), Davis gives examples from his own anthropological fieldwork of peoples who are living in the modern world in ways still deeply connected to their ancient beliefs. His argument is that people should not have to choose between an “ancient” or “modern” way of life. They are both equally as valid.
Beginning with the loss of languages around the world, Davis gives us grim statistics: although the 10 most prevalent languages are thriving, 80% of the world’s population communicates with only one of 83 languages. The rest are fast becoming extinct. When language is lost, so, too, is the foundation of a culture.
The Wayfinders is filled with fascinating tales from Polynesia, the Amazon, the Andes, Australia, Nepal, and Borneo, focussing on the indigenous peoples who have lived there for thousands of years. A natural storyteller, Davis recounts historical narratives of first contact as if he was there, although for more recent stories, he actually was there. Cultures clash as colonizers arrive on new-to-them lands with the mindset of conquering.
A standout is an anecdote from the chapter on the Peoples of the Anaconda in the Amazon that illustrates the misunderstandings that can happen when two cultures meet for the first time. In 1957, missionaries wanted to introduce themselves to the Waorani people (in Ecuador) before stepping onto their land, so as to (hopefully) avoid a fight. They decided to drop eight-by-ten glossy photos of themselves from the air. The Waorani had never seen anything two dimensional before and tried looking behind the paper for the real person. They assumed these strange things were calling cards from the devil and “when the missionaries arrived they promptly speared them to death.”
In another tone, this poignant anecdote elegantly describes a custom in the southern Andes:
When men and women meet on a trail, they pause and exchange k’intus of coca, three perfect leaves aligned to form a cross. Turning to face the nearest apu [mountain deity] they bring the leaves to their mouths and blow softly, a ritual invocation that sends the essence of the plant back to the earth, the community, the sacred places, and the souls of the ancestors. The exchange of the leaves is a social gesture, a way of acknowledging a human connection. But the blowing of the phukuy, as it is called, is an act of spiritual reciprocity, for in giving selflessly to the earth, the individual ensures that in time the energy of the coca will return fill circle.
The point Davis is making with this and other accounts is that, to many of the ancient cultures, earth and humans are inextricably linked, animals and plants are as alive as people. Without this connection, we allow the land to be spliced into countries, we create boundaries, pour concrete over the earth, hunt wildlife for sport, clear cut forests and plants in what seems like the blink of an eye; we split ourselves into races and ethnicities and religions – we separate ourselves and set ourselves up to fight against each other.
Do we want earth to reclaim us as a failed experiment when she has had enough of our divisions? Why can’t we begin to respect the wisdom from those who came before us, way before us, who understood the way nature subsists intuitively? Can we begin to remember the intuition we once had, instead of relying on the newest technology to tell us?
Sometimes the rate we are sprinting ahead makes me anxious to escape to a place where society is intertwined with the natural world and modern equipment is used only to assist in the basics of survival, if at all. But what if there are no places like this left? What if these cultures are relocated and shuffled to urban centres so their land can be exploited for those of us who live in rich countries? What if we forget the ancient wisdom?
Knowing where we came from and why we are who we are is a complicated matter, but Davis is able to convey his lifelong research into thematic chapters that can be digested by the general public. Although the book was written to be read for The Massey Lectures, it lends itself well to the written page, where one can stop throughout and ponder the issues raised and savour the perspectives from the traditions mentioned.
Davis tells stories with the passion of a traveller who has lived with the people he writes about, allowing us to follow his narratives with ease. His knowledge is so vast that it’s difficult to imagine where he stores all of the information. He closes the book by writing that he is not asking people to forfeit their right “to benefit from the genius of technology.” Conversely, he is asking us to draw inspiration in knowing that this is not the only and best way to live.
Davis moves us to shift our thinking, not by telling us to change, but by sharing the knowledge he has been offered from other cultures. This is reason enough.
“To lose a culture is to lose something of our selves.”
– Wade Davis, The Wayfinders
The beautiful necklace I bought from artist Danai Leosawathiphong from northern Thailand.
The website is run in association with National Geographic, so they keep good company, and each of the artists who create and sell their wares on the site are featured with space to tell their own story in text. A photo accompanies each profile and a link leads to all of their available creations. Customers who have bought from them can then leave reviews of the products they received.
To promote the site, I was given a $150 gift certificate to spend in the e-store to review the items I bought. I purchased an orchid necklace and cotton pants, both from Thailand. It took seven days for the package to reach me in Vancouver, Canada from Chiang Mai, which was pretty impressive.
Orchid Necklace
This sky blue flower necklace is gorgeously made, if delicate, by Danai Leosawathiphong from northern Thailand. The Dendrobium orchid has a shiny finish that feels like plastic, but it’s actually metal made by a process called electro-forming. It sits near the bottom of a leather cord, with glass beads hanging below it.
I’m wearing it with casual outfits to add some freshness, but also with dresses to add a little colour and warmth. As I mentioned above, it’s delicate, so I’ll need to pack it well when travelling and make sure I hang it on a hook in between so that it doesn’t get inadvertently crushed.
Cost: $34.95 USD (with taxes, customs duties and shipping, it came to $69.75 USD)
Cotton Pants
As soon as I saw these in the online store, I knew I would be choosing them as part of my purchase. Made of 100% cotton, they are pants with a panel that drapes across the front to make them look like a skirt from one side. They’re beautifully handmade and will become a favourite in my wardrobe (as soon as this weather warms up!).
The product shots from Novica’s website promoting the cotton pants that I bought from artist Chatchayanee Khamcharoen from Thailand.
The pants are made by Chatchayanee Khamcharoen, whose nickname is Koy (referring to the “last finger” in Thai), who has a master’s degree in chemistry but quit her job to start this apparel business with her sisters. They wanted to use better quality materials than what they were seeing at their local Sunday market, so now work with tailors who sew their designs with higher quality fabrics.
Koy writes in her profile: “I never aim for too much money; I just aim to have enough and be happy in life, responsible for my work and also for society, as well as to help others whenever I can… And the most important thing is, that I will always pay my gratitude to others, to society, and also to the environment and nature.”
Cost: $57.95 USD (with taxes, customs duties and shipping, it came to $92.75 USD)
Is shopping online worth it?
As you can see from the cost difference between what is offered in the store and what I paid, you’ll notice how much taxes, customs duties and shipping cost. It really made me think about how much retailers pay to have their non-local items shipped to them internationally and how little of the total amount goes back to the artists.
I suppose that’s why the prices are high relative to what you would expect to pay when travelling in Asia (the site also works with artists in the Andes, Bali and Java, Brazil, Central America, India, Mexico, Thailand and West Africa).
I guess there’s nothing like delving into the wares at a market and finding handmade treasures made by the artist who is sitting in front of you, at prices so far below what we’re used to in North America. But not all of us can hop on a plane regularly and purchase our merchandise that way, so this is the next best thing.
And they’re making it fun: while you’re browsing, you can curate your own collections in any way you like. By doing so, you can enter a contest to win an eight day trip for two with National Geographic Expeditions to Machu Picchu. What an incentive!
If you are going to take part in the contest, please post a link to your collection in the comments section below – I’d love to have a look through it.
Some links that Novica is trying to promote:
Romantic Gifts for Him
Romantic Anniversary Gifts
Spiritual Gifts
Cocktail Gifts
Sculpture Gifts
Romantic Gifts for Her
A fragment of this interview was published in my Gentle Traveller column [link coming soon] for tuja wellness, but this version is much expanded.
The founder of Eco Fashion Week, Myriam Laroche, poses at last year’s event.
Lori Henry: What is “eco fashion”?
Myriam Laroche: “I like to say that it’s fashion that is responsible all the way from the material you choose to the manufacturing of the clothes to the marketing and the packaging, the distribution of it, up to the selling point to the consumer. From the consumer perspective, eco fashion should be the way they buy, use and dispose of their clothes. So I really like the term responsible.
“Eco sometimes is a bit overused and associated just with the planet, when it’s really the planet, humans, a lifestyle, so I like responsible and sustainable as well. Are you doing your best every step of the way when you develop your product? Do you have the lowest amount of waste, are you consuming the least energy? Sometimes you can’t; it’s not about being perfect, it’s very important for people to understand that, but it’s about your values and how it makes you feel to buy that piece of clothes.
“Some people buy overseas but they buy brands that are supporting women, for example, because the clothes are made in a village and the village lives from that. It’s not about what’s wrong and what’s right, it’s about what fits for you and does it have a purpose behind? Are you doing it with your heart?”
LH: Does eco fashion go beyond fashion?
ML: “The fashion industry right now is very unhealthy. We’ve reached a point where it’s not about the clothes anymore. If you go to Fashion Week, it’s about which model is wearing your clothes or which celebrity is sitting front row. Fine, it’s a part that will always be there, but I think we’ve reached an extreme where we buy clothes just to wear them once, there’s no sentimental value anymore; it’s just appearance. It’s so easy to buy cheap clothes and wear it once and who cares. You buy another one after. This is the sad part. I think we’re going to find a balance eventually, that’s why we’re all doing Eco Fashion Week, but the industry is very sad and very unhealthy [right now].
LH: Why is the industry that way?
ML: “For the big guys, the retailers, it’s about money. We have found a way to hypnotize the consumer. I love clothes and I love fashion, it’s my passion, but I’m so proud to wear second hand clothing. I’m not asking for everybody to do that, but for me it has a purpose that I’m reusing, but also it’s exclusive: this is my fashion. I don’t like to be dressed like everybody else. I don’t go to a major chain store and buy a pair of shoes that I’m going to see on everybody. I like to be exclusive, this is my fashion sense.
“I remember when I was in school in kindergarten or first grade, I had kind of a sweat pant outfit, one for Monday, one for Tuesday, my cute dress was for Sunday or Christmas or a birthday. But now the kids are five years old and they need that brand or that brand, they need to look like that. Yes, fashion creates your identity, but I think it has become an addiction. We talk a lot about drugs and tons of other stuff, but shopping can be addictive. We say that people run out of money because of drugs, but some people run out of money because they load their credit cards and they don’t have money anymore. It’s the same, it’s just the damage on your physical body is less when you shop, but mentally it affects you the same.
“I’m not saying we have to stop trends, but when I started to be a buyer in ’97, we had four collections per year: back-to-school, holiday, spring and fall. Now, at H&M and Zara, for example, every month, sometimes it’s every two weeks that you have new stuff. The consumer is always stimulated.
“The consumer has to be more educated and realize, ‘I’m going nuts right now. Does it make me someone better to have 50 purses?’ The retailer has to let go of it. There are ways to do this: focusing on quality and not buying as often, but maybe at a higher price. That doesn’t mean losing money, it means redistributing the money in a different way. It’s the same money. People will spend. We’re in a good place and I think we need to reach these extremes because we can’t improve without hitting rock bottom.”
A press photo of Eco Fashion Week founder Myriam Laroche. Photo by Peter Holst.
LH: Have we hit rock bottom or are things improving?
ML: “I think a mix of both. We’re talking about it, that’s a good thing. Are the big retailers that are signing all those agreements, like the Detox campaign for Greenpeace, signing it just to sign it for the moment and figure it out after? Will they live up to their words? We will have to see.
“In the next 10 years we’re going to still have challenges and resistance, people resist change, it’s working right now strategy-wise, ‘I’m making money,’ but the long term vision…
“But yes, money is leading everything. The new business that will be successful will have money in mind, that’s how you buy, but does money have to be a piece of paper? Can second hand clothes or barter come back? We need to see things differently. People who are doing it because they love it and they start businesses with their heart and not for the money, are going to be the ones that are going to last more and more.
“I think it’s a lifestyle: it goes beyond the clothes, it’s about the way you feel, the way you take care of yourself, those are the new leaders who’re going to make a difference in consumerism.”
LH: What does Eco Fashion Week consist of?
ML: “EFW is still evolving, I would say. We’re doing our sixth season and when we started it, I started it really like a regular fashion week. A fashion week is a tool for buyers to see designers collections and place orders. It’s a business tool. But we realized that if we want people to shift towards a more responsible way of manufacturing clothes and buy responsible brands, you need to educate them.
“To say, ‘Hey, buy this because it’s eco-friendly’ [there’s not much response]. But if you show them a video of the impact the clothing industry has on the planet, for example, if you go to India or China, there are pink and purple rivers everywhere because of the dying. The damage is huge and you see it visually. We’re so far away that if you don’t show it, people do not understand why they have to make the shift. ‘It’s so great here,’ they say, ‘where are the pink rivers? We don’t see it. We hear about some stuff but we’re in a beautiful country.’ The educational aspect is very important. This season, in April, for the first time, we are going to kick off with the Seminars, which are the educational aspects.
“What we did last season with Value Village, who is one of our major sponsors – they’ve been amazing – one of the statistics that really made me realize that things aren’t going very well is 68 pounds is the amount of textiles and clothing the average American throws away every year. Not donations, garbage. And I thought, ‘68 pounds?! What could we create from that?’
“So we asked Kim Cathers, who was in the top six of Project Runway Canada, season two, to take 68 pounds of textile and clothing from Value Village, but not what is on the floor, what Value Village removes from the floor after three weeks because it’s not selling. They either ship it to Africa or sell it to a textile recycler. So it’s not even what’s on the floor, it’s the discarded stuff. Kim created an entire collection from that and you know what? We did not even use the 68 pounds! Those are inspiring things.
“I know H&M won’t do that, but for them to see it and think, ‘Hmmm, we have overstock and we’re shipping it to Africa right now but maybe there is something we can do with it. We could create new patterns.’ I think it’s GAP who had an agreement with Good Will to take second hand clothing back. How great would it be if you have GAP stuff, you can bring it back to them and you get a discount. Then they choose if they donate it or reuse it. They could even have a second hand section in their stores, why not? There’s a lot of creative thing we can do.
Rise Upcycling, a Vancouver brand, is showcased at Eco Fashion Week last year. Photo by Alfonso Arnold.
“What is the right thing to do? We don’t know. Five years ago bamboo was the thing, the ‘eco’ thing to do. Yes, bamboo has an eco-friendly aspect because it’s like a weed, it takes nothing from the soil and it doesn’t need pesticides. But when you transform it and you dye it, it still has a damaging process to the planet.
“When you buy a piece of clothing, ask where it is from. I don’t mind if it’s from China or local, but if it’s from China, where exactly is it from? We’re not going to stop manufacturing things in Asia, so instead of trying to fight and boycott, let’s be sure that they have certification and that they do not dump dye in the rivers anymore. I don’t believe in radical movements. I think we need them to inspire us but to tell me not to do something, it has never worked for me.
LH: Talk about some of the events at Eco Fashion Week this year
ML: “We’re going to have the 68 pound challenge for the second time. Kim Cathers is doing it again, creating a collection from 68 pounds of men’s suits only. We were wondering if we should ask another designer, what should we do, and she said, ‘I would love to do it again, but I would like a bigger challenge.’ What an inspiration.
“We also have the Thrift Chic Challenge for our third season. We choose three thrift stylists and they all receive $500 in gift certificates from Value Village. They have to style 10-15 looks, head to toe. There’s no sewing, it’s really just about styling. That comes from me because I’m a stylist, I’ve been doing that forever. 80% of my wardrobe comes from Value Village, and there’s not one day where I don’t receive a compliment like, ‘Oh, I LOVE that!’ It’s just to inspire the consumer to be creative.”
Dates of the next Eco Fashion Week
April 21-24, 2013 at Robson Square in Vancouver. The next one will be in October.
– His Highness Sheikh Mohammad bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice President and Prime Minister of the UAE and ruler of Dubai.
Dubai is… well, it’s hard to describe Dubai. Usually when I travel, I choose a destination because of an interest in its local culture. While I knew Dubai was a city full of expats (the local population is reported to make up between 10-15% of the residents), I didn’t think about how that would make the city feel.
I dutifully studied my greetings and vocabulary in Arabic, even though I was told, “everyone speaks English in Dubai”; I packed clothing that I thought would be appropriate, even though I was told, “people wear whatever they want.” When I arrived, I had no idea what kind of accent would come out of somebody’s mouth, be it Australian, Pakistan, Indian, American, etc. The local culture was noticeable, but barely.
It seemed the city was created for the expats; going out at night felt like being in any other cosmopolitan city, not in a place where alcohol can only be consumed in designated areas (and with a permit, although tourists don’t really need to worry about that). It’s the kind of place where people show up and create a new life, be whoever they want to be.
There are no “off the beaten paths” here, no “real, authentic” Dubai. Even those born here don’t usually get a UAE passport. It’s a city of visitors where the word LOCAL is downright confusing.
There I am at the front of the camel (with travel writer Shannon Melnyk) on a desert safari in Dubai. We went out with 40 other trucks to drive over the dunes (nauseating) and then dine with hundreds of other tourists in a camp where they served Indian food and brought in a belly dancer from Brazil.
Nature
Nature as I know it is very different in Dubai. Rows of colourful flowers and bushes have been lined purposefully along some of the streets, but can only survive by being hooked up to rows upon rows of black water hoses, like lifelines, that spray water at them frequently.
Birds hang out at the hotels, where more trees and flowers are planted only for their aesthetics. Skiing and (ice) skating are done inside malls and a 12-acre water park acts as an escape from the scorching desert. But the desert itself has been silenced here, with 100+ storey towers growing out of expanding slabs of concrete. A ten-lane highway runs east to west through the city, a busy artery that drones on to the hum of some very expensive cars. It’s all a bit hard to comprehend.
This was my favourite nature find in Dubai. This old tree was growing near the entrance to one of the Sheikh’s palaces. I gave it a nice pat in acknowledgement.
Speaking of nature, how about penguins in Dubai?
Arctic Penguins Arrive in Dubai by associatedpress
Old?
As we drove along Jumeirah Road on our way back from the Jumeirah Mosque, our guide pointed out 20 year old buildings. They were waiting to be torn down and new structures built. Is 20 years old?
What was once considered the highlight of Dubai’s skyline, the Dubai World Trade Centre was completed in 1979. At that time, it was the tallest building in the UAE (39-storeys) and the beginning of the high rise culture of the city. Now it is an “old” tower surrounded by recent additions of hotels, exhibition halls and apartments.
The iconic Dubai tower: The Burj Al Arab, the only 7-star hotel in the world.
Glass Towers in the Sky
The “New Dubai” is scattered with sky-high glass towers; the city is dripping with five-star hotels and trendy nightspots. “Old Dubai” has a more frenetic street pace; here you can see people actually working.
I can see the appeal of New Dubai, though, although it’s not my kind of thing. It’s intoxicating being around so much affluence, in a city where homelessness is pretty much non-existent (to enter, other than as a tourist, you must be sponsored by an employer who often includes housing in their contract, so there is virtually no homelessness or unemployment). I was told the crime rate is 0.25.
It reminds me of a city like Calgary (not the unemployment, homelessness and crime figures), where people are doing well in general and have money to spend. Young professionals are everywhere and they’re living lives with good jobs and disposable income.
That doesn’t mean that all is well, of course. But as a brief visitor, it’s interesting to note these statistics and cursory observations. I’d love to hear from people living in Dubai now (or in its heyday): What is it like? Comment below, please!
*My trip was hosted by Emirates and included three other Canadian travel writers. Read my post about travelling business class and a behind-the-scenes look at the Emirates kitchen facilities.
Here are some photos that haven’t fit into any of my previous posts:
Here are some photos from my jaunt through the spice souk:
*My trip was hosted by Emirates and included three other Canadian travel writers.
]]>If you are female and are wearing clothing that is inappropriate (bare shoulders, skirts above the knees, etc.), there are abayas (full length dresses for women) for you to borrow. Although not required when I was there, it is suitable to bring a scarf you can cover your hair with.
Fun fact: Our guide told us that there is a mosque every 500 metres in Dubai, accounting for approximately 1,600 mosques in the city.
*My trip was hosted by Emirates and included three other Canadian travel writers.
]]>There is even a hockey league that plays here (Emirates Hockey League, as well as a national team) and games are free to watch. I was disappointed to miss a game the day after I left between the Dubai Mighty Camels (should we tell them to follow the name change of the Anaheim Ducks?) and the Al Ain Vipers. Also in the league are the Abu Dhabi Scorpions, Abu Dhabi Storms and Al Ain Theebs. Who needs the NHL?
*My trip was hosted by Emirates and included three other Canadian travel writers.
]]>The Burj Khalifa also has the elevator with the longest travel distance in the world, and beats out the second tallest building (North Dakota’s KVLY-TV mast at 628.8 metres / 2,063 feet) and tallest freestanding structure (Toronto’s CN Tower at 553.33 metres / 1,815.4 feet). “At the peak of construction,” reads the official website, “over 12,000 workers and contractors were on site everyday, representing more than 100 nationalities.”
And one more stunning fact out of many from the website: ‘The total weight of aluminium used on Burj Khalifa is equivalent to that of five A380 aircraft and the total length of stainless steel bull nose fins is 293 times the height of the Eiffel Tower in Paris.”
Here is a promo video to give you an idea of the project from start to finish. Note that I say promo video. After being awed by it, I urge you to also read the articles (two of many) covering the human rights violations, etc. in Migrant Rights and The Guardian. Here is also a general investigation by the BBC on workers conditions in Dubai.
Fireworks Light up World’s Tallest Building in Dubai by NTDTelevision
*My trip was hosted by Emirates and included three other Canadian travel writers.
]]>The old neighbourhoods in the photos below are Bur Dubai and Deira (and Al Ras in Deira), where the city grew from a small fishing and trading village in the 18th century, to a hub for fishing, trading, and pearling in the 19th century, to the post oil discovery development after 1966, to the Dubai that is now known as a city of extravagance rather than its prime trading location in the Gulf.
Here are some shots I took of the old neighbourhoods along Dubai Creek where workers labour outdoors under the scorching sun and the glamorous glass architecture is nowhere to be found.
*My trip was hosted by Emirates and included three other Canadian travel writers.
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Saying that, it’s a tiny hotel compared to the enormous properties elsewhere in the city. At only 160 guest rooms and suites, it also has eight restaurants, exclusive retail outlets and a spa. The draw is that every aspect of the hotel’s design and service offerings has been designed and planned by Giorgio Armani himself and each hotel guest is assigned a personal Lifestyle Manager who will serve as a personal contact and host from the moment they make a reservation to the time they check out (and even beyond).
On an afternoon while I was in Dubai, Trish Friesen (of TripStyler) and I wandered over to the hotel. A security guard standing at a locked gate said that even media needed a reservation to walk into the hotel. I used my polished negotiation skills and sweet talked us in. 
We were curious to know what an Armani Hotel would look like.
We didn’t have much time, but here are a few shots from that afternoon.
And here is the rest of the place, photos courtesy of Armani Hotels & Resorts:
A night view of the Burj Khalifa and the Armani Hotel Dubai at its base. – Photo courtesy of Armani Hotels & Resorts.
A guest room at the Armani Hotel Dubai. – Photo courtesy of Armani Hotels & Resorts.
The lounge at the Armani Hotel Dubai. – Photo courtesy of Armani Hotels & Resorts.
*My trip was hosted by Emirates and included three other Canadian travel writers.
]]>It’s located beside a metro station and the hotel runs a free shuttle service to the old part of town every two hours. There are 15 restaurants and bars in the hotel, as well as an attached mall called The Boulevard.
Here are some photos of the hotel:
*My trip was hosted by Emirates and included three other Canadian travel writers.
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