Lake Titicaca, Peru: A Photo Essay

The city of Puno sits in the northwest of Lake Titicaca and is the main gate in Peru to access the lake. The city itself is not charming, but if you hit it during a festival or other event, then the concrete building-lined streets warm up with folk dancing, music and general conviviality. Puno is, after all, known as the folkloric capital of Peru (as well as for its significant consumption of alcohol). Photo © Lori Henry

Once we had entered the lake for a few kilometres, a small boat zipped past us waving a green flag. This was the “authority” of the lake, the ones who organize all visitors to Uros Islands (our first stop) to make sure that tourists are spread evenly throughout the communities. This arrangement ensures that all of the families on each of the islands share in the tourism dollar. Photo © Lori Henry

What makes the Uros Islands such an attraction is the construction of, not only the buildings, but the islands themselves. They float. Made from totora reeds found growing wild near the shore, the Uros people build full islands with them by layering them on top of each other to make a buoyant “ground.” As the bottom rots from sitting in the water, the inhabitants constantly replenish the reeds from the top. Photo © Lori Henry

These same totora reeds are also used to make houses (as seen above), as well as handcrafts and boats. Here, two men are building a boat. This piece will eventually form half of the bottom of the vessel. Photo © Lori Henry

Here is a completed reed boat, ready to take out travellers on the lake. “Drivers” sit in the two rounded sections (on the far left of the photo) and paddle from there. Visitors can sit wherever they’d like – the seating at the top is a great place from which to take photos of the other islands. Photo © Lori Henry

The Uros people hand make textiles that reveal their history in images. They sell these and other handcrafts, using a plethora of bright colours. I bought a gorgeous hand carved, ceramic reed boat miniature that occupies a distinct place on my shelves. Photo © Lori Henry

This lovely mother and daughter sold the same textiles and handmade souvenirs on a different reed island. Photo © Lori Henry

This is the inside of a reed house. They’re one-room and, because the floors are reed, it’s almost like walking on the floor of a bouncy castle. It’s probably great safety-wise for active young children! Photo © Lori Henry

The Uros people were a small tribe, but have intermarried with the indigenous Aymara-speaking people, making most of the contemporary inhabitants a mix of both backgrounds. It is said the Uros people began living on these reed islands centuries ago, when they moved here to distance themselves from the fierce Qullas and Incas. Photo © Lori Henry

This is Taquile Island, one of the islands where travellers can stay overnight on Lake Titicaca. This is highly recommended, as most tourists only poke around during the day. While the lake is already several thousand metres above sea level, Taquile is an even further climb. Because of the effects of altitude on the body, the slog up the path from the dock is intense. There are no roads or vehicles (but plenty of stone paths), so hiking is the only way up the terraced hill. Photo © Lori Henry

It wasn’t until the mid-twentieth century that Taquileños began inviting tourists onto their island. This is when tourism was seen as a way to develop the communal economy, which is now based mainly on textiles and tourism. The community is still the focal point of the island, though: tourism works like Uros Islands in that each boat is met at the dock and allocated to a particular host / accommodation in order to share the income. Quechua is the local language. Photo © Lori Henry

This is the guesthouse I stayed at. Although it was very comfortable, note that there is little to no electricity on the island and some accommodations don’t have running water. Guests are asked to take their garbage back to Puno when they leave and to not give candy to the children: I heard that the the Taquileños now have to hire a dentist to come on-island because, since sugar was introduced, they have been having dental problems. The textiles being weaved are distinct to the island and produced by all community members. The technique and designs date to before the Spanish arrived. UNESCO has deemed the textiles as a Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Photo © Lori Henry

I happened to be on Taquile Island when Pentecost celebrations were happening. This is the main square, filled with Taquileños of all ages. Drinking, music and dancing were the main forms of celebration, from what I saw: many of the islanders could barely stand up and children would run around helping their older relatives to their feet once they had fallen. There were crates of beer stacked high. Photo © Lori Henry

As the sun went down, the revellers began walking back home, as there are no lights except for candles after dark. Interestingly, the Taquileños waved the Peruvian flag and you can see them carrying it with them as they walk. In Canada, Indigenous peoples have quite a complicated relationship with the government (as do Indigenous peoples in Peru) and are not usually seen waving the Canadian flag proudly. I was surprised to see such Peruvian nationalism. Photo © Lori Henry

This is a typical meal served on Taquile Island: it usually starts with a hearty soup and then a similar plate of salad, trout, rice and potatoes. Simple but good homemade cooking. Photo © Lori Henry