“What are you up to today?” asked Malcolm, a local I had met yesterday. We had run into each other at the Saturday farmers’ market. My plans were to walk along the beach exploring the area, maybe rent a kayak or bike, and that was pretty much it. Instead, Malcolm took me under his wing and we made a day of it.
I’m usually on the road during my birthday because it’s in August (last year I spent it in Cape Breton), and this year I found myself in Queen Charlotte, Haida Gwaii (known as the Queen Charlotte Islands). These gorgeous islands in northern British Columbia are absolutely stunning.
View of Bearskin Bay in the Village of Queen Charlotte in Haida Gwaii, BC.
Haida Heritage Centre
We started at the Haida Heritage Centre (Kaay Llnagaay), a new (2008) cultural centre in the nearby Haida village of Skidegate. Here I marvelled at Bill Reid’s Loo Taas canoe (kept outdoors like the rest so the wood doesn’t dry out), Haida art and artefacts. Last night I also watched the local Haida dance group rehearse for their 2nd anniversary celebration.
Haida Heritage Centre in Skidegate, Haida Gwaii: Bill Reid's Loo Taas Canoe.
Balance Rock
After a drive around Skidegate and the heights (where there are roads to nowhere with overgrown bushes crowding the paved streets, fully serviced and waiting for Haida residents to move in), we wandered down to the beach to see Balance Rock. There we ended up in a long conversation with a couple from Alberta who knew a lot of the same people as Malcolm from the husband’s days working in Haida Gwaii.
As far as Balance Rock (considered spiritual because it defies gravity and coastal storms), I’m told that if it ever falls over, that will be the end of the islands.
Balance Rock in Skidegate, Haida Gwaii (British Columbia).
Back in Charlotte, I hung out at Malcolm’s house for the rest of the evening, eating kelp and smoked salmon, drinking wine and watching videos of his childhood friend and famous opera singer, Sarah Brightman. What a voice!
I watched the sunset over Bearskin Bay on my walk back to the Premier Creek Lodge, where I was staying, as well as a perfect rainbow. What a great birthday.
Read more articles on Haida Gwaii here.
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