Cape Breton Travel: Pipers’ Ceilidh, Canada

Sydney Harbour's "Largest Ceilidh Fiddle in the world" in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia (Canada).

I arrived back at my place in Vancouver at about 1:30pm. After a few hours of re-packing from my trip to Alberta, I put my feet up, made myself dinner and headed back to the airport for my red eye flight to Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. Yes, I was going from the luxury destinations of Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper to the rugged, unpretentious Cape Breton Island.

Not much sleep ensued on the layover in Toronto before the second leg of the trip to Sydney, NS. The day was bright, sunny and warm and I drove out of the airport exhausted and completely excited to be back in Cape Breton.

I picked up a bag full of fruit from the Sydney co-op store and made my way southwest. I’m staying in Iona, a small community smack dab in the middle of the island, the Bras d’Or Lake on one side, St. Andrew’s Channel on the other.

Getting there is an easy under-one-hour drive, which I made into a two-hour meandering jaunt. I didn’t bring a driving map because I was here in June and, well, there’s only so many roads in Cape Breton. But I also wanted to see some back roads that I didn’t have a chance to see last time.

Highland Heights Inn in Iona on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia (Canada).

Needless to say, I got caught trying to cross through the middle off of route 223 to the other side of the peninsula. On the general map that I had, there’s a clear road that crosses over, but the highway doesn’t have such clear-cut signs.

So I just turned at the road that looked fairly well kept and hoped for the best. Turns out, it was a winding dirt road with more jutting rocks than flat land. After almost an hour of wondering if I’d ever make it out of the wilderness, I found myself back on a highway heading towards the beginning of highway 223. Exactly where I’d just come from.

Oh well, I had the time, was blasting Dixie Chicks in the car, and the time sort of acted as a transporter to settle me into the island and away from the fast pace of the trip I just came from.

As soon as I got out on the road, past Sydney and into the heart of Cape Breton, I could feel my smile soften and muscles relax. That’s just what happens out here.

A slow fuel up at the Highland Heights Inn, where I’m also staying, consisted of pan fried haddock with rice and veggies. Then it was off to the 19th annual Féis An Eilein to attend the Pipers’ Ceilidh.

Highland Heights Inn Restaurant: Pan Fried Halibut Supper in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia (Canada).

Kenneth and Calum MacKenzie kicked things off with piping and piano, while Meaghan, Anita and Jody (see a video of Anita dancing here) hit the stage to do some step dancing. A chorus of voices would float up from behind me whenever folks knew the song. Ryan MacNeil (nephew of Rita MacNeil and part of the band Beòlach) joined in with his whistle (and bagpipes) and I couldn’t help but be happy.

This is the last night I would go out and not know anyone.

What I Liked:

• The drive from the Sydney airport to Iona was the perfect way to acclimatize to Cape Breton. It’s different here and I love the way it makes me feel.
• I’m here to take part in the Féis An Eilein in Christmas Island, a Gaelic festival where I can learn step dancing and get a taste of the culture. The Highland Heights Inn is central to all things Féis, as well as getting to the surrounding communities where I can research more about Cape Breton dancing.
• I noticed right away how much I’ve been smiling to myself since I got here. This is going to be an unforgettable trip. 

Tags: Bras d’Or Lake, canada, Cape Breton dancing, Cape Breton Island, Cape Breton Travel, ceilidh, Christmas Island, Féis An Eilein, Gaelic festival, Highland Heights Inn, Iona, Kenneth Calum MacKenzie, Nova Scotia, ns, Pipers, route 223, Ryan J. MacNeil, St. Andrew’s Channel, step dancing, Sydney airport