After arriving in Haida Gwaii for the first time (known to most as the Queen Charlotte Islands in northern British Columbia), I spent my first three hours in town at Rainbows Gallery (3201 Oceanview Driver, Queen Charlotte, 250-559-8420) chatting with Jack. That’s sort of the way things go here; everyone has time for you.
Jack's Rainbows Gallery in Queen Charlotte in Haida Gwaii, British Columbia.
Haida Gwaii Culture
We discussed everything from fetal alcohol syndrome (a high occurrence on the islands, he tells me) to writing, travelling and Haida Gwaii culture. I learn that he is fond of saying the Queen Charlotte Islands are the “Galápagos of North America.”
Jack also fills me in on the drug and alcohol problems on the islands, similar to what I heard up in Iqaluit, Nunavut, and I find out the next day that there has been quite a few robberies in the last few months (including Jack’s Rainbows Gallery), a disappointing escalation. Not all is well in paradise.
A Single Kayaker out in Bearskin bay from Queen Charlotte in Haida Gwaii, B.C.
Kayaking, Fishing, Hiking and Boating in Haida Gwaii
Paradise is for the visitors to the Queen Charlotte Islands, who mostly come for the outdoor adventures. I stayed in Queen Charlotte, a village of just over 1,000 residents, which is a good base. (Flights come in from nearby Sandspit Airport.)
Cycle Therapy rents bikes, Queen Charlotte Adventures takes care of kayaks, and there’s fishing everywhere. (On my flight home, people had boxes filled with their catches.) Hikers can climb up Sleeping Beauty Mountain or walk the Spirit Lake Trail (3 km) in Skidegate, the neighbouring Haida village. Just ask around town or at the visitor’s centre if you need help with anything.
Read more about Haida Gwaii here.
Copyright 2010 Lori Henry
Great story Lori! Interesting to learn about Haida Gwaii!
Amy, it’s so amazing up there! Of course, now I have to go back.
Definitely more to come on Haida Gwaii in the next week…