Ålesund, the Art Nouveau City of Norway

August 16, 2010
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Ingrids Glassblowing Studio in the Art Nouveau City of Ålesund, Norway.

Ingrids Glassblowing Studio in the Art Nouveau City of Ålesund, Norway.

Hands down, Ålesund is my favourite city in Norway (so far). Called the Art Nouveau Town, Ålesund was burnt to the ground by a devastating fire in 1904 and was rebuilt in the style of the day: Art Nouveau. Today, it remains a charming small city on the coast.

Glassblowing Studio
Let’s go right to the best part of the city, Molovegen, where original houses that were not burnt by the fire of 1904 still stand. They are typical of buildings in Ålesund in the 1800s and are clustered at the foot of the harbour. Here I found Ingrids Glassblowing Studio (website in Norwegian only), a live/work studio in a pretty warehouse. In a pair of baggy jeans and cartoon t-shirt, out comes Ingrid Cecilie Ulla, a slightly shy and down-to-earth artist who introduces us to her cats before showing us her work.

Although the shop looks private – it’s her home, so it kind of is – the studio is usually open from Monday to Friday, 10-4 and Saturday, 10-3. Just give a little knock if the door is closed and go on in. Ingrid might be working in the corner or chatting with customers about her work: it’s really worth taking a look at her stuff.

It ain’t cheap, though. She tells us that rent is 100,000 NOK a month ($16,700 CDN), which doesn’t seem possible for an artist. But she’s got a prime location, a place to live, a studio and a showroom, so maybe it isn’t a misunderstanding. Things are expensive in Norway…

A bright, colourfully decorated plate is 10,000 NOK ($1,600 CDN) and a pedestal plate is 7,000 NOK ($1,150 CDN). I realize I’ve also seen her work at the gift shop of the Maihaugen Museum in Lillehammer.

The Lighthouse Hotel, part of Hotel Brosundet, in the Art Nouveau City of Ålesund, Norway.

The Lighthouse Hotel, part of Hotel Brosundet, in the Art Nouveau City of Ålesund, Norway.

Ålesund Lighthouse Hotel
Almost straight out her front door is a small lighthouse we walk out to. It turns out, it’s part of a stunning hotel, Hotel Brosundet, room #49. We get the keys and go up, one at a time. The narrow staircase twirls upwards one story into the miniscule room that’s stuffed with a bed. One tiny peephole window looks out at the Norwegian Sea.

Luxury bath products are stocked in the equally miniscule washroom. That’s it. But it’s adorable and extremely popular for couples looking for a night somewhere different. The rest of Ålesund is a walkers paradise, with the sea air blowing in, Art Nouveau buildings on all sides, and a small city feel on the streets.

The Art Nouveau City of Alesund, Norway.

The Art Nouveau City of Alesund, Norway.

Ålesund Restaurant
We ended the evening at the waterfront XL Diner to gorge on the speciality, bacalao. This salted cod fish has many variations and Norwegians have adopted the fish as their own. XL Diner prepares it all different ways, so we ordered the platter: Italian, Portugues and Spanish.

With the never-ending sunset pasted pink across the sky, our bellies full of bacalao, I take a snapshot in my mind: I feel good here.

Read more articles about Norway here.

(I travelled as a guest of the Eurail Group, Visit Norway and Visit Ålesund.)

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Copyright 2010 Lori Henry

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