Lori Henry is a freelance travel writer based in Vancouver, Canada. She writes about cultural dance, indigenous cultures, outdoor adventures and wellness around the world.
The Cabot Trail Cape Breton Drive in Nova Scotia, Canada.
Most people driving along the Cabot Trail in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Nova Scotia miss out on a very neat stop. It’s quite out of the way and you need instructions to get there, but it’s worth the extra effort, as I found out.
After travelling north along the Cabot Trail, I came to the sign for Pleasant Bay. Instead of continuing along the road, though, I turned left and followed the small street to Red River. Another left here (there’s a rundown gas station on the side of the road) and the road became a dirt path after crossing over a very narrow bridge.
This road goes on for about 3 km, twisting and turning, narrowing and climbing unexpectedly. Just when I thought I was about to enter nowhere-ville, I saw a little red sign that read “Gampo Abbey, The Monastery of Shambhala International.” Ah, I had indeed made it.
Gampo Abbey Red Sign at the Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia (Canada).
Gampo Abbey (yes, they have a website!) was founded in 1984 by Chogyam Trungpa Rinpoche and has between 25-30 monastics and lay practitioners staying there at any one time. The property sits on 230 acres of land and includes a Shedra, a monastic college where, for three years, daily life consists of meditation, study, contemplation, work, household chores and the practice of community living.
When there are no retreats in session (you have to drive there and check the little notice box beside the red sign), travellers who have made the trek can tour the facilities. During July and August, they usually run guided tours from Monday to Friday at 1:30 and 3:30, although times are always subject to change.
If the monastery is in retreat or there are no tours running, you can just walk through some areas of the property, avoiding areas where there are little signs that say “Retreat.”
Secluded House at Gampo Abbey in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia (Canada).
I did just that, as the monastery wasn’t open when I went at the end of June. I walked towards the buildings (at the red sign, there’s another little sign that says, “No Parking” and that’s because you’re not supposed to take your car that way. Turn right and there’s a few parking spots just around the corner).
After wandering around a bit, a monk came wandering up with a book in his hand, dressed in his red robe and smiling at me. He asked how I was and if I was here to have a look around. I told him that I wasn’t sure what I was doing, I had just wanted to spend a bit of time here.
He pointed me to a few trails that he said were good and said, “You must come back after July 1st, when you can go inside the buildings!”
I took a nice stroll through one of the trails he suggested, past a very secluded little house (and many prayer flags) and a brook. It was completely silent and the sun was gentle.
The Stupa of Enlightenment at Gampo Abbey in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia (Canada).
Eventually I made it to the Stupa of Enlightenment, the first one in Nova Scotia (you can also follow the road past the parking spaces and you’ll come to it). Apparently, you’re supposed to walk clockwise around it three times in order to bring blessings to your life. Of course, I did just that, reading all of the plaques filled with Buddhist wisdom that were carved into the surrounding stone walls.
What I Liked:
Cape Breton can be pretty rural, but this is the ultimate in finding peace. There are no sounds except for the birds and small running brook. The air has an instantly calming effect, if you just stand still and breathe it in.
There is also the Gampo Lhatse Hill (about a 15-30 minute hike) that leads to a traditional style small shrine. Kuan Yin’s Grotto, a brass statue depicting the Bodhisattva of Compassion in the feminine form is on the trail on the way up.
Although much off the beaten path, this trek was worth it for me, as I was at a Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in rural Cape Breton! (Make sure to fuel up in Chéticamp, as it’s the last gas station along the way.)
6 Responses to Gampo Abbey in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia (Canada)
Judd Arlen Brynes on September 7, 2009 at 11:43 am
I am interested in information regarding attending retreats that can both inform me and prepare me for a possible life long monastic life. A life with more meaning in helping myself and others. I met a friend recently who has been involved with your organization for 6 months and has benefited from it.
Bill Anneken on July 4, 2010 at 11:15 am
Hi Lori,
You have found my favorite place in the world. Did you happen to visit the Cathedral Rocks at old John’s? It’s the first cabin on the left after the road turns to dirt.
I agree, it’s pretty special there. No, I didn’t get to Cathedral Rocks at Old John’s, as I didn’t know about it. What’s in the cabin? You’ve piqued my interest!
Bill Anneken on July 4, 2010 at 1:43 pm
There’s not much in the cabin, I boarded it up years ago. I usually pitch a tent by the cliff and camp whenever I get up that way. Stop in next time and enjoy a picnic and a sunset. The rocks rise from Buck’s Cove below the cabin cliff and resemble Cathedral spires.
Thanks for commenting, Sandra. For example, the in-House retreats cost $60 CDN per night. This includes your accommodation (private rooms in the Sopa Choling Long Term Retreat center) and three vegetarian meals a day. The minimum stay for an In-house retreat is seven nights and the maximum is two weeks. All of their programs are here: http://gampoabbey.org/programs/index.html. Registration is by phone and a credit card. I hope that helps, but all other info or questions is best sent to the abbey directly. I hope it works out for you!
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I am interested in information regarding attending retreats that can both inform me and prepare me for a possible life long monastic life. A life with more meaning in helping myself and others. I met a friend recently who has been involved with your organization for 6 months and has benefited from it.
Hi Lori,
You have found my favorite place in the world. Did you happen to visit the Cathedral Rocks at old John’s? It’s the first cabin on the left after the road turns to dirt.
I agree, it’s pretty special there. No, I didn’t get to Cathedral Rocks at Old John’s, as I didn’t know about it. What’s in the cabin? You’ve piqued my interest!
There’s not much in the cabin, I boarded it up years ago. I usually pitch a tent by the cliff and camp whenever I get up that way. Stop in next time and enjoy a picnic and a sunset. The rocks rise from Buck’s Cove below the cabin cliff and resemble Cathedral spires.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=179061&id=114747581882828
I understand lay people can attend a retreat at Gampo Abbey. Can you tell me where to apply, time and length of retreats, and the cost? Thank you.
Thanks for commenting, Sandra. For example, the in-House retreats cost $60 CDN per night. This includes your accommodation (private rooms in the Sopa Choling Long Term Retreat center) and three vegetarian meals a day. The minimum stay for an In-house retreat is seven nights and the maximum is two weeks. All of their programs are here: http://gampoabbey.org/programs/index.html. Registration is by phone and a credit card. I hope that helps, but all other info or questions is best sent to the abbey directly. I hope it works out for you!