Wales Travel: Hay-on-Wye Bookshops and Festival in the UK

Hay-on-Wye, UK Shops: Goosey Gander is a Chandelier Store with Colourful Characters and a Pink Flamenco.

“See that pink flamenco? He’ll never sell that. And read that piece of wood over there, ‘The Glass QUEEN.’ I think that tells you everything you need to know about Paul.” I’m hanging out in Goosey Ganders (Hightown, 01497 822899), a chandelier shop in the quaint Hay-on-Wye town in Wales, UK, best known for its myriad of character bookshops.

But I was out exploring all things non-book related, just to see something different. Goosey Ganders caught my eye because of the painted pink exterior and vintage chandeliers in the display window.

When I stepped inside, two locals were chatting over a cup of coffee and a book. They were delighted to have a visitor, as they were just spending the day watching over the shop for their friend Paul, mentioned above.

Hay-on-Wye Shops, UK: Bullring Antiques Owned by Paul and Simon.

So who is this Paul? They used words like flamboyant and eccentric; they mentioned his little dog, a princess who accompanies him everywhere. And he was minding shop just up the street at his other store, Bullring Antiques (Bear Street, 01497 820467). What was I waiting for? They told me to get up there and say hello to him.

So off I went to Bullring Antiques to meet Paul. As I walked in, a little princess of a dog looked up and began wagging his sweet little tail. I announced myself like anyone else in town would: “Hello Paul! How goes it today?”

Startled, he looked up at me from his desk, surrounded on all sides by charming antiques and (surprise!) pink walls. “Why, hello,” he smiled. “What a day, isn’t it?”

Hay-on-Wye Shops, UK: Vintage Clothes at The Olde Curiosity Shoppe.

After discussing the unusually warm weather and bright sunshine on this early March day, I finally let him know that we didn’t, indeed, know each other and that the folks at Goosey Ganders had told me I must come up to visit him. He just laughed and shook his head, encouraging me to come on in and take a look around.

Hay-on-Wye Bookshops
Above all, though, Hay-on-Wye is a small town of 1,500 residents devoted almost entirely to books. It claims to have more books per square mile than anywhere else. (Fun fact: Its twin towns are Timbuktu, Africa and La Redu, Belgium.) It belongs to Wales, but some of the eastern parts of the town do actually bleed into England.

I spent a full morning just walking the streets. Seemingly every other storefront was a bookshop, and a cute one at that. Shelves are lined with classics, children’s, mainstream and offbeat genres; tourists come from all over the world to spend the day poking through the book-lined stores and chatting with the locals. It’s impossible not to be charmed.

Hay-on-Wye Festival
The most popular time of the year is the Hay-on-Wye Festival, held this year from May 27, June 6, 2010 (although there is a whole slate of fun festivals taking place throughout the year). This outdoor literature and arts festival brings the community together with visitors who mix it up on the lawn and under the tents.

Hay- on-Wye Cafe, UK: The Funky Chamaeleon Coffee Shop Isis.

Hay-on-Wye Hotels

Accommodation at Hay-on-Wye is easy to find, whether through bed and breakfasts, guest houses, self-catering options and camping sites. Recommended is The Swan Hotel (Church Street, 01497 821188), located right in the heart of town.

This is where I stayed when I visited. The rooms are fairly basic, but the hotel itself is the charming appeal. An old coaching inn, it’s all cozy comfort here, as long as you’re not expecting anything fancy. Prices range from £75 for a single room to £155 for a luxury double during peak times and includes free wireless internet and breakfast.

Tags: Accommodation at Hay-on-Wye, Bullring Antiques, Goosey Ganders, Hay on Wye Festival, Hay-on-Wye Bookshops, Hay-on-Wye Hotels, UK, Wales Travel