Falling in like with Prague in the Czech Republic, Europe

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Everyone I told was so excited to hear that I was going to Prague: The beauty! The architecture! The beauty and the architecture! And neither disappointed. But I still left feeling like I was missing… something.

My guide, Elena*– possibly the most passionate person about a city you could ever meet – gave me stories of royalty and wars, tales of neighbourhoods and historic characters; yet I just couldn’t connect with Prague. This, the city that escaped being bombed during World War II to preserve its oldest (and some crazy pretty) buildings…

I had met an American traveller named Cory – a young, ex-army guy from small town Texas – who had almost the same travel path as me: we left Amsterdam on the same train, met back up in Berlin, I continued onto Prague a day earlier than him, we just missed each other in Budapest, and then he curled around and headed northwest while I continued onto Romania.

When we met up in Prague, he had clearly gone gaga for the city in less than an afternoon, and I clearly hadn’t, which we debated over dinner in a tiny, hole-in-the-wall café filled with only Czech conversations.

“It’s more than I thought it would be,” he said.

“It’s nothing more than I thought it would be,” I replied.

Not even Frank Gehry’s Dancing House (see photo below) could woo me to Prague’s charm. (Although woo me in general it did – have you ever seen such a beautiful modern building?)

So, what gives? Don’t get me wrong, I really liked Prague, it was very pretty, but has anyone else not fallen in love at first sight with the city?

You will love the photos below, I hope.

View of Prague from the Powder Tower: Czech Republic, Europe.

View of Prague from the Powder Tower: Czech Republic, Europe.

The Astrological Clock at the City Hall Tower in Prague, one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city.

The Astrological Clock at the City Hall Tower in Prague, one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city.

A view of the Central Square in Prague, Czech Republic.

A view of the Central Square in Prague, Czech Republic.

The narrowest street in Prague leads to the Certovka Restaurant. See the pedestrian "walk" light?

The narrowest street in Prague leads to the Certovka Restaurant. See the pedestrian “walk” light?

The Statue of St. John of Nepomuk on the Charles Bridge in Prague. It's said that if you touch it, you'll have good luck and return to the city.

The Statue of St. John of Nepomuk on the Charles Bridge in Prague. It’s said that if you touch it, you’ll have good luck and return to the city.

The Dancing House co-designed by Canadian architect Frank Gehry. It's actually the Nationale-Nederlanden building, an insurance company.

The Dancing House co-designed by Canadian architect Frank Gehry. It’s actually the Nationale-Nederlanden building, an insurance company.

Nerudova Street up to Prague Castle in the Czech Republic, Europe.

Nerudova Street up to Prague Castle in the Czech Republic, Europe.

The iconic St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague, Czech Republic.

The iconic St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague, Czech Republic.

The fascinating Dripstone Wall at the Wallenstein Gardens in Prague, Czech Republic.

The fascinating Dripstone Wall at the Wallenstein Gardens in Prague, Czech Republic.

*My trip was sponsored by the CzechTourism Canada and the Eurail Group.

London to Prague AdventureLondon to Prague Adventure

  • http://www.colleenfriesen.com/blog Colleen Friesen

    I’m right there with you Lori. It felt like there was no there, there. Maybe it’s because there’s so many of us tourists?
    Not sure, but I absolutely loved the Czech Republic in general. It is still my favourite cycling destination.
    Kevin & I loved the rural towns and the endless well-maintained cycling/walking routes, but when we got to Prague…something felt forced. I still haven’t put my finger on it either.
    Like you…I liked it. In fact, I liked it quite a bit. I just didn’t love it like I felt I should.

  • http://www.wanderingcarol.com Carol Perehudoff

    Hey Lori, I spent two summers in Prague at a writers workshop and it’s a hard city to crack. Like Colleen says, it has something to do with so many tourists being there that you don’t often feel as if you’re hanging out with the locals. My second summer, I rented an apartment right over the Charles Bridge and that made all the difference. Just having a little retreat (in a 500-year old building) with windows looking down over the square meant I didn’t have to just ‘see’, sometimes I could just ‘be.’

  • http://www.lorihenry.ca Lori Henry

    Colleen, riding on the train through a smal slice of the Czech Republic had me dying to get out there into the country, so I’m not surprised to hear that the cycling there is great. (Adding to my list…) Isn’t it funny how often you feel like you “should” love a place because of its reputation and how many other people love it? :)

  • http://www.lorihenry.ca Lori Henry

    Carol, I think that’s the key: the place is crawling with tourists and I found it hard to escape them. Usually I can find a way to get around the tourist scene in a city pretty fast, but I just couldn’t do it here. My guide told me that I would love Vienna (where I was heading next) because it only takes a month to fall in love with it, but Prague takes years to really “crack” it. I think she knew what she was talking about…